Vintage Moto Switcheroo

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Vintage Moto Switcheroo

General switch repair, cleaning, parts, wire and sheath replacement to full restoration of switchgear. Remarking of function information. Custom work undertaken.

Wiring looms repaired and remade. Dash fascias remarked. https://vintagemotoswitcheroo.au/ vintagemotoswitcheroo.au

19/08/2026

Happy shuttle Wednesday. todays subject is a left control from a 1975 Kawasaki KT250 trials bike.
This was sent to me to have the broken beam contact shuttle replaced along with the missing thumb toggle.
This is a free service if your part isn't already in my inventory. You get new parts, I get a new master. :)
I also fitted a new horn button as the old one had wear marks where it passes through the switch housing.
The owner also elected to have the switch rewired as the original wiring was age hardened. This part of the job was paid for though.
While I had this one on the bench I also took a mold from the 'indicator delete' grey filler piece and will also add these to my inventory of switch parts.
Contact me with the number on the underside of the switch housing {this one is 004} and I can determine whether or not I already have your shuttle and toggle.

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17/08/2026

Happy monkey bike Monday. Todays subject is a left control from a 1981 Honda Z50. This arrived in kit form minus wiring but was complete other than a missing beam toggle. This was cloned from the on/off toggle.
The horn button was too discoloured to be recovered so was replaced with one that I already had in my lineup as fitting the CT200 ag bike.
The shell was polished and remarked and the internal steel parts derusted and recoated with silver cold galvanising spray.
That'll do for this one. I have another Kawasaki Z1300 control set in at present. This has discoloured red plastics so will be attempting to make new horn, kill and cruise control toggles. The rotary beam switch is broken so will be making a new part for this also.
That'll do for this one. As always, thanks for reading and have a great Monday. 😂

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12/08/2026

Happy Z13 Wednesday. Todays subject - a kill switch from a Kawasaki Z1300 is one of those small jobs that can be problematic, but also satisfying.
This came in not working {obviously .... or it wouldn't have been sent to me :)). It also wasn't moving.
Taking it apart showed the condition wasn't too bad but the switch had obviously been repaired before. I think the reason that it was frozen was that instead of the steel ball it had what may have been a cut down and reshaped carpet tack fitted to the end of the spring.. A test assembly with 3 mm ball fitted showed the spring to be a little soft so this was replaced with a slightly firmer one.
The bore for the spring wasn't in good shape and the material didn't drill cleanly to give a smooth bore for the spring and ball to move in so I drilled this to 3.5 mm and press fit a short length of 3 mm ID brass tube slightly longer than this area of the switch which seemed a little short and then filed it to length until it allowed the toggle to move.
This area had also been reinforced with steel and to make clearance for this the plastic insulation had been broken out of the steel housing. Once I had the switch working another issue showed itself - the steel reinforcement on the toggle had continuity to the steel switch housing.
The insulation was replaced with a thin layer of switch epoxy raising another minor issue in that the toggle had no clearance to fit into the housing so the steel reinforcement was filed until it fit.
Then I found that I still had continuity to the housing on a test fit. This was traced to the spring contacting the brass pivot pin. This was remedied by using a nylon pivot pin.
I did try to upload a 10 second video of the functioning switch but it wouldn't load ... Oh well, can't have everything. :)
Enough words from me. As always, thanks for reading and avagoodone.

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08/08/2026

Happy early Yamaha Saturday. Todays post will be a quick one.
I'm currently working my way through making parts for early Yamaha controls. Todays subject is the left control with cast in product number YHA206. I have several of these in my stash and was restoring one to use as a fashion model for product listings when I noticed that a couple have a difference from the norm.
The control on the left of the main picture has the horn button that I'd expect to find here. But the one on the right has a larger hole to take a rubber shrouded kill button. This is a momentary switch so would need to be pressed until the motor actually stops.
This version is for dirt models, notably the DT series {125, 175, 250 and 400 twin shock models} Also the AT3 125, CT3 175, RT3 360 and the TY250 trials model.
The regular road version fitment was smaller models including the RD125, As2, AS3, YAS3, LS2, LS3, RS100, RS125, RX100 and the CS5. I am not particularly knowledgable on these models so I'll leave it at that.
The in house parts here are the light and beam contact shuttles {thumb toggles in the works} the turn toggle and the horn button in the road control.
That's enough for one post.
All the best and as always thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings. Have a good weekend.

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06/08/2026

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05/08/2026

Happy start switch repair Monday. I've just had a control set and loom through for a Moto guzzi NTX 650. The usual stuff for this type of job. Clean, inspect, find faults and fix them.
The headlight ground only had a few strands still connected .... which snapped when moved. There was also a lot of verdigris here and the plug itself had some minor melting preventing the terminals from being removed so the plug was replaced with a high temperature ceramic insert plug suitable for halogen headlights.
I replaced much of the headlight wiring, a few other lengths of stiffened and cracked wires that would go to engine sensors, neutral light etc.. Some terminals were replaced.
The controls, while cosmetically challenged were in quite good condition internally though extremely filthy and the only real fault found here was a broken start toggle pivot.
This area was milled off and replaced with a new brass tube pivot glued in with casting epoxy and further secured with two brass brads.
That's enough for this post ...... back to cross referencing early Yamaha beam toggles.
All the best and thanks for reading.

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04/08/2026

Happy switch parts Tuesday. I've been a bit quiet again.
The jobs have been a little sparse and those that have come through are types that I have shown multiple times already. Ducati Darmah, Katana etc.
I have spent a lot of time cross referencing controls and making replacement parts.
Am working on beam switches for all of the alloy bodied Yamaha controls - left hand shells numbered 201 to 219 which encompasses much of the '60s and '70s bikes.
The 201 controls were fitted to the early YAS1 125cc twin and YCS1 180 cc twin. (I had one of these once} Mine was the YCS1E, the E standing for electric start. That little bu**er went pretty hard for such a small, old bike.
The final Yamaha control in aluminium - the 219 was fitted to a couple of Virago models - the XV500 and 920.
There are a few exceptions to this. In this numbering a series are a few plastic bodied controls mainly for dirt bikes but with the same basic construction as their alloy counterparts. The 209 control in the photos is an example of this. These were fitted to the DT models 125cc up to 400cc. I have developed light on/off and beam shuttles for these and will also add the thumb toggles.
Also in the works are the parts for similar vintage Suzuki and Kawasaki models.
I'm not worrying about Honda controls at the moment. The switches made for Honda by TEC {Tokyo electric company} are different in their construction to those used by the other Japanese manufacturers, though I do already make some parts for these.
I am also researching for an article on the switches used on the early Japanese bikes and the manufacturers that made them. Companies likeTokai Denso, Asahi Denso and Nippon denso. The last will be familiar to most as everyone will have used their spark plugs, points and condensers at some time.
I'm always taking requests on the parts that I don't already make and the deal works like this - You send me your control with the broken shuttle. I clean and service your control and send it back to you with the new replacement parts fitted for the cost of postage. I have an early Kawasaki control inbound on this basis. - shell oo4. In this case fitted to a 1975 KT250 trials bike. Other recents include the Yamaha TY175, now added to the lineup along with its thumb toggle.
I'll leave off on this one here but expect to hear more on this as things progress.
All the best, and as always, thanks for reading.

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18/07/2026

Happy Darmah Saturday. Todays subject is another Ducati darmah set.
These display a fairly typical damage that eventually occurs from dirty switches.
The contact plate for the start button has broken down the middle. This generally occurs when the owner has to do the 'press and grind' to get the switch to function. Eventually the force involved deforms and then breaks the contact plate. Things only go downhill from there.
This one has been replaced with one made from fibreglass sheet and is good to go.
These have also had the horn and start buttons replaced. These were functionally OK but the horn button had wear marks where it passed through the hole in the shell and the start button had been painted along with the shell at some point, as had the kill toggle. I managed to scrape the paint off of the kill toggle so this didn't need replacement.
The wiring in the right control had some issues with failed insulation so this one was also rewired.
That's enough for one post so I'll leave off here.
As always, thanks for reading and enjoy the weekend.

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Adelaide, SA
5047

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