PEVology.com, New York, NY (2026)

05/15/2025

PMTs On A Mars 11 XTR 72V 45Ah
What We Picked For Paved Road Surfaces

First thing in order is to replace those CST tires! Went with PMT 110/55-6.5 T40s! What's a T40? Why a T40?

Because it's the same hardness compound (65 Shore A) as the PMT Stradales which offers better durability for paved roads but in a Slick profile.

If you're actually using your scooter for racing tracks, then you'd go with the T41s which is softer (56 Shore A) for extreme grip but wears much quicker, especially on most paved roads.

We initially fitted the Inmotion RS with T41's Slicks which offered a nice sticky ride on paved roads, but the very slight extra grip was not worth the tradeoff for the extra durability - in our opinions.

The RS's T41's ripping at 50mph+ sustained rides wore out quicker than we expected on non-racing pavement. Also, the T41's, due to being softer, will penalize you about 2-4mph off your top speed, depending on weight and road surfaces.

Also, most people will opt for the 100/55 6.5 size mainly for the thinner profile and slightly better maneuverability, at the cost of a smaller contact patch which is needed for higher speeds. Since we enjoy riding fairly fast, mainly on paved roads, we opted to have more contact patch.

The 110/55 6.5 is only about 10% more in width and sidewall height. Overall diameter and circumference are only 4% more which also equates to about the same percentage in less revolutions needed per mile. We test many scooters with a 4.5" wide tire without any problem with maneuverability or cutting corners. Everyone has a different riding preference.

Taking off the stocked hybrid nylon CST tires can easily be done by hand. Usual method is tire spooning but this time we decided to test the 4 zip tie method. We clamped down the tire to get the 4 zip ties tight enough to where the opposite tire beads touch each other. Trying to insert the tire into the motor wheel is NOT possible this way. The width of both beads together is too restrictive and too wide to clear.

So, we thought, why not just take off the top zip tie to offer more flexibility to wiggle in the tire. That did the trick! With the bottom half of the tire zip tied, I can easily tuck it in the motor while only needing to work the top half with a tire spoon. It was fast and much easier - the best of both methods!

Also, when changing tires, I make sure wipe down and clean all surfaces, especially the bead area. Final step before airing them is to apply some bead sealant (like a liquid rubber) which will essentially guarantee you will not have any tiny air leaks.

PMTs look great and gives the scooter a much cleaner and beefier appearance. Can't wait to try her out on the next sunny day.

Cheers!

05/12/2025

A best way to enhance the internal Inmotion RS dampener (AKA damper).

The Inmotion RS dampener in practice is not a bad idea but was poorly executed in my opinion. No matter how much I would tighten it to gain any effectiveness, not much actually happens. Knowing that some people have complained about stripping their dampeners from an apparent "over tightening", finally led me to look into it further.

First thing I noticed was the considerable amount of space given around the actual stem rod, which is held centered by drum bearings located on the top and bottom. The dampener protrudes into the stem housing in efforts to gain purchase on the stem rod itself. This might be Ok, IF the dampener had a tension nut on the other side of the tightening screw to attach to, which it did not. This was why people were stripping their dampeners because the threads only relied on the soft nylon of the dampener. The dampener was designed to have an end nut, but apparently in production, mine didn't come with it. And I'm sure, many RS's went out the same way.

Aside from not having an opposite tension nut, the stem rod was also greased. Not sure why they thought this would help since the grease would counteract with the friction needed in this type of design. In fact, Inmotion's Youtube maintenance video suggests you apply some type of grease on the dampener's contacts points when you replace them during maintenance. Makes absolutely no sense. It's like throwing oil on a race track where slick tires to grip.

I looked around and found that a person had glued a thin layer of rubber onto the dampener's contact patches. I liked this idea a lot so I decided to try it this method.

I picked neoprene rubber because it's a compound that is resistant to heat, oils, chemicals and remains flexible and stays intact over a wide range of temperatures and time. Better than just rubber. For now, I used a glue that I already had, Loctite Extreme Gel that bonds to almost everything. I've had decent experiences with it. There are better glues like 3M's 1300 for Neoprene & Rubbers, full industrial strength, but for this small project I think the Loctite Extreme Gel will work fine for something that won't require major stress.

I've included a pictorial walk through of the process, also a video to show the scooter off the ground and how it has grip, where before it would just swing freely.

The whole process wasn't hard, turned out pretty good in my opinion, and the dampening resistance is 1000% better than just leaving the stock dampener as is. I didn't need to torque the "improved" version, since it already offered a mild, yet noticeable dampening resistance. I used 1/8" thick neoprene knowing that this will occupy any available space in the stem's housing. Over time, as the neoprene wears evenly onto the stem (just like brakes on a rotor), I can easily maintain the tension I want and tighten it perfectly, without it getting loose on me because of the addition of the tension nut that they failed to put in during assembly.

I know many people say that the Inmotion RS doesn't need a dampener... while the form factor of this scooter's rake angle pointing in front of the motor axis will prove this physically to be correct, I would still prefer one when riding high speeds (I do most of the time), especially when you hit those unexpected large cracks or imperfections on the road, possibly during a lean/turn that can easily cause a stir your momentum which will require a slight correction on your part.

Last thing to mention is when trying to reassemble with the improved dampener, you'll need take off the top drum bearing to be able to lean the stem away from the "thicker" dampener in order to clear. After the stem has cleared the dampener, then you can easily straighten out your stem by putting back in the drum bearing. I sit on my scooter to apply weight in making sure the everything seats back down as far as possible before tightening everything. Tightening the top bolt first is best because this will help you seat everything down first, before tightening the cross bolts.

Hope this helps anyone who is interested into doing the same. Looking forward to my next high-speed run on those fast curvy roads.

09/13/2024

Me and my Commander Pro enjoying the day ... 😜

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