01/06/2026
IMPORTANT DILLBILLY FREEBIE
WINTERIZING:
Starting your machine once a month and replacing or using all of the fuel every 6 months is the easiest way to store your equipment. They would rather be exercised instead of being hibernated. If you anticipate resting your equipment for more than 6 months, add about one ounce of fuel per gallon of gas and run the machine for a couple of minutes with the oiled fuel. This will "fog" the cylinder with oil and coat the carburetor in a stable oil that prevents corrosion of the valves, rings, cylinder, and fuel tank, while also preventing jet blockage in the carburetor. An alternative to this is draining almost all of the fuel and dumping the oil directly into the fuel line, which is fine if you have a plastic tank that doesn't corrode. A metal tank collects condensation with or without fuel, and watery gas is easier to work with than a corroded and frozen (possibly cracked and destroyed) carburetor. The ethanol in 87 octane fuel mixes with the water and has an antifreeze effect, and it will hold the water in suspension and the machine will run great until the saturation of water reaches the point where it falls out of suspension and begins to pool at the bottom, which sadly happens immediately with ethanol free. The only ethanol free fuel I recommend is VP racing 4 stroke ethanol free fuel in the grey cans, but it is expensive. Regular pump ethanol free has been proven to be less reliable in terms of starting and running when the machine goes unused for one month intervals, and 87 octane e10 (10% ethanol) was shown to be the most reliable and last the longest, beating every other fuel including 91 octane, and 87 octane with stabilizers, except stabil 360. The best fuel to use would be 87 octane with no store bought stabilizers. See the taryl fixes all fuel study on youtube. Fascinating stuff. Adding a dash of oil to the fuel also has the added benefit of lubricating the float pin, valves, throttle plate, and upper cylinder.
RODENT DAMAGE:
Rodents love an unused machine. If you regularly use a machine, a rodent will notice the disturbance in smell and placement and likely steer clear.
PREVENTING 2 STROKE FAILURE:
Run more oil than you think you need in 2 strokes and label the gas can as soon as you mix the fuel. If you're unsure of whether or not a friend or family will remember to use oil in the fuel and mix it to the right ratio, give them a fuel can with premix. Tell them it needs oil in the fuel to run. Ask me about the studies that prove reduced wear and more power on a richer oil mix, all the way down to 20:1 and 16:1! (Be mindful of the noxious exhaust and reduce the oil if you can't handle it). I recommend 32:1 in general, but 16:1 is optimal if you can handle the oil cloud. 25:1 is an incredibly safe mix that doesn't have such an obnoxious exhaust. I see permanent damage from 40:1 and 50:1 all the time unless you run redline/amsoil/VP racing premix. If you run the most expensive oils above or off the shelf premix from VP racing (not trufuel) you won't see any wear with 40:1 and 50:1. The quality of the oil matters the most if you're running light on the oil. The quantity of oil matters the most if you're running an unknown or untested quality of oil. I have heard great things about echo red armor oil, but haven't scoped any pistons or cylinders to be able to confirm myself. Stihl "ultra hp" grey bottle oil has shown to leave deposits on pistons, whereas the cheaper orange bottle oil does not.
DIY MAINTENANCE:
Don't tip your mower or snowblower to any extreme angle unless you want a mess and possibly a fouled spark plug. The crankcase vent goes right into the intake, and the oil can flow into the combustion chamber and cause a no start or just cause a huge leak onto the floor. It ruins air filters immediately if they get oil soaked. Placing a plastic bag in between the gas cap and the tank, then tightening, can prevent a vented cap from dripping fuel.
SAFETY:
Many mechanics lose fingers or hands from working on machines without disabling the spark or removing the spark plug. Removing the spark plug is the easiest way to make a machine unable to start unexpectedly.
MAINTENANCE TIP:
The most important part of maintaining a machine is making sure the lubricating fluids are not running low. The only time I've ever seen an engine wear or blow up is from a lack of oil. You're supposed to check the oil level every time you go to use a machine.
STORAGE:
A tarp over a machine causes just as many issues as no tarp over a machine in the elements. The best place for machines is indoors. Rain and sunlight age and corrode the pivots, fasteners, plastics, and rubber. Water can intrude into the fuel or oil. A tarp may partially solve the UV damage to paint, rubbers, and plastics, but a rodent finding a sturdy and dry home is a real problem.
BUYING EQUIPMENT:
Used equipment on marketplace is usually half the price of new, if not less, and is often made better than something you can buy new at the store. Older equipment was engineered for serviceability and robustness, whereas modern equipment is computer designed to reach a price point and last for a specific time. When buying used, test the equipment as if you are doing a usual job with it, and make sure it runs well. If you must buy new, make sure it's a professional machine and not a homeowner style machine. Name brands help to ensure part availability.
Stay away from stihl 4mix equipment. They have plastic engine internals and a failure prone design.
