Brass and Classic Motorworks LLC

Brass and Classic Motorworks LLC One of the most complete restoration shops you will ever find under one roof. By appointment only.

Lesson on Carburetor vacuum leaks.. How many times have you struggled with trying to get your car to run well and everyt...
09/22/2021

Lesson on Carburetor vacuum leaks..

How many times have you struggled with trying to get your car to run well and everything points to the carburetor as being a problem. Once you pinpoint that the carb is the problem often times you struggle with trying to rebuild it and then find that the problem is still there or worse. Buying a new or rebuilt carb(s) can be rather costly so this may not be an option. So you may ask yourself what is the problem and how do I fix it.. The problem often times is due to vacuum leaks at the butterfly shafts. So what can you do to fix the vacuum leaks? Let me shed some light on this for you.

I often get requests to fix carbs with vacuum leaks due to worn butterfly shafts or the shaft holes being worn excessively causing excessive vacuum leaks. These vacuum leaks can affect performance greatly. Often times a carb is disassembled and a rebuild kit is installed. After the carb is cleaned, rebuilt and reassembled vacuum leaks become evident or more evident. The reason the vacuum leaks become more evident is that the shafts or bores have worn and there is a varnish that builds up on the shaft or in the bore which takes up some of the wear slop. Cleaning the carb during the rebuild process removes this varnish making the shaft to bore fit looser and the vacuum leaks become more pronounced and obvious.

Given the multitude of carb designs there isn't one standard fix that applies to all. Each carb design may require special tooling and machinery, machining knowledge and skill, coupled with a comprehensive understanding of how each carb design works in order to find the optimal solution to the problems identified.

Often times multiple types of repairs are required for the same carb. In this example the carb was machined for a special seals on two of the butterfly shafts. And for the third butterfly shaft the housing was line bored and brass sleeves were machined to fit.

You may question why seals were used on two shafts and sleeves were used on the other shaft. In this case the shaft bores were very close to the carb mating surface and there wasn't enough material to allow for installing sleeves. I could have machined the bores a few thousandths larger and then machined new butterfly shafts to fit but due to the design of the butterfly shafts this would have been a very costly repair. Machining the carb for seals was the optimal and most cost effective solution here.

Another question you may have is why did I use brass for the sleeves. The number one reason for using brass is thermal expansion and secondly it wears similar to the aluminum or zinc die cast carb bodies. Brass expands at a very similar rate as aluminum or zinc die cast does which helps to prevent the butterfly shafts from seizing in the brass sleeve when the carb heats up. Also note that for many carbs the butterfly shafts are made out of brass or plated steel. For each type of butterfly shaft material different shaft to bore clearances are required to prevent shaft to bore seizing.

For cast iron carb bases a completely different set of machining steps and techniques need to be applied. Cast iron expands at a different rate than aluminum, zinc die cast, or brass. So sleeving a cast iron carb base is done differently. (As a side note, brass valve guides should never be used in cast iron heads for this reason. Cast iron expands quicker than brass and the valve guides will be compressed and eventually will become loose in the heads and or cause valve stem to guide seizures or both.)

Hopefully this gives you some idea about how carb vacuum leaks are often times a problem and a high level understanding of how some of the common types of carbs are fixed. Feel free to contact me if you need assistance with your carburetor issues. This post will also be available on my other page, see Brass and Classic Motorworks LLC.

Machine shop and other services:With all that I do its often hard finding time to update my profile with new posts so it...
07/19/2021

Machine shop and other services:
With all that I do its often hard finding time to update my profile with new posts so its about time for an update. Many of you know that I offer complete restoration services, engine and machines shop services, fabrication welding, etc.. but most do not know to what extent and or what that really means. So I thought I would show a few examples of some of the machine shop work that I do to get started. Please note that these are just a few examples and I will add more examples later in future posts. The following pictures illustrate some of what I offer in the lines of machining and design services.

Many of the pictures included with this post were done from a basic concept and or no drawings at all. And given I restore very early cars and motorcycles I often have to design the parts from scratch or from photographs where available. For some of these parts the client supplied the basic design requirements and I did the rest using my extensive design and machining background, using CAD/CAM, and all were machined in house.

Some of the industries serviced include: automotive, motorcycles, medical and surgical tooling and components, bicycle manufacturers, printing, bakery, and numerous other manufacturing sectors. I also build custom tooling and equipment for use in the manufacturing of parts. My services also include full R&D services from concept to production. And also note that I recently added plasma cutting and 3D printing to the list.

After taking a look please feel free to get in contact with me for any needs you may have. And note that I can work from a napkin sketch, a concept, 2D or 3D drawings, etc and help you bring your project to fruition.

Just finished setting up a Chevy 10 bolt rearend that need a gear ratio change on.. This is for a 1939 Plymouth restomod...
08/17/2019

Just finished setting up a Chevy 10 bolt rearend that need a gear ratio change on.. This is for a 1939 Plymouth restomod I am in the process of rebuilding and undoing another shops major screwups on. This shop went bankrupt and based on the quality of work I can see why.... scary to say the least. As soon as I am done with this great project I will be putting up a detailed breakdown on the build, rebuild and all the things that were done wrong and without regard to safety. In the mean time I just wanted to share some technical info about rear end setup..

Guys... if you are going to install a different rear end in a car please take the time to do the computations on the engine rpm's at a given cruising speed and be realistic. To do that you will need the rear tire diameter, transmission OD/final gear ratio and use a realistic cruising rpm of say 2000rpm at 70 mph, then you can play around and come up with a real ring and pinion gear ratio to use. And as an FYI there are lots of online calculators to help you with the numbers if you aren't a math wiz... In this case the shop put in this rearend and the calculated cruising speed at 2000 rpm would have been 107 mph. Duhhhh... On what planet will we be able to cruise at that speed.. (Please let me know... I am a speed ju**ie... lol) Mind you this car has a brand new GM 6.0 L96 and 4L65e trans so its will be a good cruiser.. but not at that speed. So I changed out the ring and pinion and put in all new bearings and seals. (I also narrowed the rearend and used a custom set of axles for this application. I narrowed it so that standard offset wheels could be used instead of custom offset wheels..)

I attached a few pictures of the gear set in its final configuration to show both the backlash and contact areas under acceleration and deceleration. The manufacturer recommended .008" - .012" backlash for street use. I set it up with .0085" backlash. As you can see from the paint on the gears the contact areas are just about optimal in the sweet spot.

I will begin posting comprehensive technical breakdowns of various and common things as time allows. So please keep an eye out for the write ups.. And please ask any questions you may have about this topic or any others.

The first two pictures show the backlash and the next two pictures show the contact areas under acceleration and deceleration.

Just about done rebuilding and repainting the Tobin Arp line boring machine. As soon as its up and running again the new...
02/09/2019

Just about done rebuilding and repainting the Tobin Arp line boring machine. As soon as its up and running again the newly "babbitted" main bearings of 1933 Packard Super 8 block will be line bored. The second photo shows the new bearing blocks that I CNC machined to snug things up for accuracy.

Partial view of the engine shop
02/09/2019

Partial view of the engine shop

Machineshop equipment... fully CAD/CAM equipped with CNC capabilities.
02/07/2019

Machineshop equipment... fully CAD/CAM equipped with CNC capabilities.

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112 Golden South Drive
Dallas, GA
30157

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