23/05/2023
PATSOU GORGE:CROWDS OF PEAPOLE AT THE CAVE TEMPLE OF AGIOS ANTONIOS
The Pachu Gorge is a perfect route, capable of stimulating the mind, heart and body because of the archaeological attractions that are part of a wonderful natural background, and because of the constant challenge it poses to the hiker who wants to conquer it.From Rethymno we take the road that leads to Spili and connects the northern and southern parts of the island. After 26 km in Mixoruma, we follow the sign for Karines, we pass Lampini, which before the settlement on a hill, displays the round shape of the wonderful Byzantine church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Immediately after this hamlet, a sign announces the gorge of Agios Antonios at twelve kilometers, while the road climbs, offering to the south an incredible view of the region of Agios VasiliosArriving at the saddle we cross the borders of the municipality of Amari, the first village we meet is Karines which is protected by Mount Kedros. Seven kilometers away is Patsos, a small village characterized by white houses with their yards completely occupied by stacked thick tree trunks. The spring, below the roadside, still functions as the village tap where the women wash clothes
As soon as we enter Patsos, a sign on the left of the road announces the "Canyon of Agios Antonios" and the "Ruins of Agios Antonios" in one kilometer. We park on a plateau under the shade of an oak tree. A massive wooden structure announces the entrance to the gorge, a simple gate directs us to a slightly uphill path protected by a wooden fence.The evocativeness of the place recalls some romantic engravings of German painters of the eighteen hundred: an open spacious slope, overgrown with exquisitely leafy plane trees ending in the gurgling waters of a ravine. Terraces with benches have recently been created for all visitors to enjoy the panorama, while picnic areas, wooden tables and a makeshift barbecue are located near an old spring by the river. Higher up, dug under the cliff, is a huge cave that houses the church of Agios Antonios and next to it, on a rocky ledge, there was the altar of the pagan sanctuary.On this natural altar thousands of years ago, ceremonies connected with the Minoan nature worship took place, centered on the mystery of the changing of the seasons and the renewal of the cycle of vegetation. The sanctity of the site remained untouched from the Minoan era until the first centuries of the Roman conquest of the island. Votive objects were discovered in the area of the altar, small spear points, sacred clay horns, while in an inscription of the 1st c. e.g. reference is made to the worship of Hermes Kranai (Doric form of “Krinaios” fountain, source).
The special preference for Hermes, who was worshiped throughout the island as the protector of shepherds and forests, is confirmed by the finding of a bronze statuette, from the 1st-3rd c. A.D. which represents him with winged sandals, pointed helmet, quiver, and a hunting trophy in his right hand. In Roman times it was natural to add to the cult of Hermes that of Pan, god of forests, a statue of whom was discovered in the vicinity.
Later, with the spread of Christianity, through a process of osmosis very widespread in Crete, paganism was reincarnated in the revered figure of Saint Anthony the Hermit.
The small church is wedged under the rock and before the entrance, stacked in a corner are some crutches and other tamas, metal plates that represent parts of the human body, an arm, a calf, a head. Inside, a single space blackened by the smoke of the candles, next to the images of the Saint, there are simple pieces of paper, where, not only in Greek, are written requests to grant grace or thanks from those who received it.Αρχίζουμε πάλι να βαδίζουμε στα βόρεια του δάσους, μπροστά μας έχουμε μια επιλογή: ένα ξύλινο βέλος στα αριστερά και ένα στα δεξιά, με την ίδια φράση γραμμένη στα ελληνικά “Βόρεια έξοδος” μας δείχνει να κατέβουμε στο φαράγγι. Συνεχίζουμε κατά μήκος της ανατολικής πλαγιάς γιατί το “Σπήλαιο Φουρναρό” φαίνεται αρκετά ενδιαφέρον. Μια σπηλιά σκαμμένη στο βραχώδες τοίχωμα, με κάθετες ανάγλυφες γραμμές, στο χρώμα της άμμου και ροζ που σε ένα σημείο γίνονται λείες, συγχέονται και μετατρέπονται σε κυματοειδείς σκούρες γκρίζες κηλίδες.
As the path descends, we encounter large terraces made of tree trunks which facilitate the descent. Another sign with the inscription “Caves” leads us away, other cavities open below the sides leaving strange clusters hanging down, a kind of stalactites, over a meter long, with jagged ribbing. Throughout the area, for those who want to enjoy nature without much fatigue, easy walking routes have been created
while for those who like intense excitement, they can follow the alley that descends steeply and winding with tight turns. At the bottom of the valley now can be seen piled up giant boulders, side by side or even wedged into each other. Soon the path ends, we can’t go any further along the right side and a small bridge, with wooden parapets helps us, taking us to the left side and marks the entrance to the chasm itself.
From now on we have to use our brains, hands and feet to climb over boulders, climbing up and down rudimentary wooden ladders chained to the rocks, passing through holes dug in the rock, in order to conquer other movers and wedges between the rocks, which always lead us lower into the ravine. A passage dug under a stone arch, with the help of a small iron ladder, takes us into the hollow of a natural amphitheater.
We are now walking on the gravel of the canyon bed, there is no trail marking, only the big rocks that we have to pass. The invaluable ladders are gone, so at one point we slide on a pole, the only point of support to overcome this obstacle. We are quite low, we can’t see the sky anymore.
After an hour of hiking, the plane trees appear again and in the subsoil the cottonwoods. The imposing construction of the Potami dam can be seen in the distance. Then we take the same road in the opposite direction. The difficulties we encountered now seem much less and we quickly return to the wooden bridge. We ascend along the western side of the mountain, hitherto unexplored, and after passing a
large sycamore tree, we climb a well-marked road, which sometimes climbs smoothly and sometimes completely steeply. In a quarter of an hour we reach the initial fork and the small church of Agios Antonios. The recreation area welcomes us warmly, to indulge in total relaxation, satisfied that we have accomplished the task.
