K3C - Kijoma Classics, Campers & Conversions

K3C  - Kijoma Classics, Campers & Conversions Service, repair, customisation, conversions and more. Primarily Vauxhall, Bedford and Suzuki and Campervans
A division of Kijoma solutions Ltd (est. 2000)

like kids in a sweet shop :)k3c.uk
04/09/2026

like kids in a sweet shop :)

k3c.uk

Daisy likes it here, the last MOT flagged up more things, not just one..the rear spring shackles, surprised they passed ...
03/09/2026

Daisy likes it here, the last MOT flagged up more things, not just one..

the rear spring shackles, surprised they passed before, pictures show they were in desperate need of change, so this has been done with our K3C made shackles and bushes.

It also failed on fog light not working, we discovered it didn't seem to have one.. So it has now.

Finally, the speedo binnacle illumination wasn't working at all. after much tracing and grumbling at dodgy wiring, it was determined the supply feed to the dash lights was broken within the loom. So we wired in a new automotive grade cable to replace it.

now for Just one more MOT.... hopefully!

hi all,This image should raise a smile for all Super Carry and Rascal owners, and sadly perhaps sadness for those whose ...
03/09/2026

hi all,

This image should raise a smile for all Super Carry and Rascal owners, and sadly perhaps sadness for those whose vehicle has already ended its days due to this part fizzing away..

The Front cab chassis cross member..

Now in production and will be in our next factory order..

02/09/2026

Hi all,

Here is an MOT quirk for you, that may go either way, depending on how the regulations are interpreted with respect to Bedford rascals and Super Carry's.

Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Rear fog lamp not working (4.5.1 (a) (ii))

If you lack a FOG light then the above failure may or may not happen.... i.e. it may PASS with no FOG light fitted.

If you have a FOG light fitted and it does not work then a FAIL is guaranteed.

So.. Why is NOT having one fitted a grey area? The answer to this is the regulations changed :-

Rear Fog Lights: Mandatory on all vehicles (typically required for vehicles first used from 1 April 1986 onwards, and must be fitted to the center or offside/driver's side of the vehicle).

The Rascal started production in February 1986 and they went on sale from March 1986 ..

So it can be seen the clash of these dates could mean your MOT tester could state the Rascal was first used in March, prior to the FOG light regs changing. however when the first production rascal was sold , registered and used is an unknown :)

So a FAIL or PASS with NO FOG light is equally valid and invalid.. it seems.

electric fan conversion,  decent fan neatly fitted into a radiator cowling.to be continued... 🙂
28/08/2026

electric fan conversion, decent fan neatly fitted into a radiator cowling.

to be continued... 🙂

Daisy is still here, now sorted the rear brakes by changing the bias valve, and it stops a lot better now.the brake flui...
21/08/2026

Daisy is still here, now sorted the rear brakes by changing the bias valve, and it stops a lot better now.
the brake fluid has been flushed through, and the old brake fluid had a lot of water in it, as can be seen from the pictures.
brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), this reduces braking performance and helps rust out the brake system internally.
the new fluid is dot 5.1, a far better spec and compatible fluid to the original.
The hand brake cable return spring had rusted away, so we have fitted a new one.

We also sorted the steering column earth issue, so the horn now works again.
so... now back for another MOT !

Hi All, Super Carry / Rascal NEW body panels!Here's a sneak peek at what's been going on since our last order of panels ...
19/08/2026

Hi All,

Super Carry / Rascal NEW body panels!

Here's a sneak peek at what's been going on since our last order of panels from the factory.
More new panels are being made, including cab floor panels, lower bulkhead panels, A posts, door frames, cab roofs, strut top panels, complete front panels, headlight bowls, gutters, and more.
We're hoping to also get the front chassis leg made, or at least the ends.

If you have a old stock repair panel or section you need made for a classic then if we can justify it here, we can get those made too.

Driving Miss Daisy…Well, they would be, but as is often the case, the MOT flagged up “just one more thing”, Columbo styl...
12/08/2026

Driving Miss Daisy…

Well, they would be, but as is often the case, the MOT flagged up “just one more thing”, Columbo style.

OK, more than one… but I digress. There was more work to do before the MOT too, so let’s wind back to that first. 🙂

We replaced the coil wiring mess, fitted a new ballast resistor, a new coil and an electronic distributor.

Yay! Now the coil isn't boiling, the distributor advance isn't sticking, and the previous electronic points aren't melting from the 12V-on-a-6V-coil situation.

As mentioned, the MOT had expired, so, having been instructed to remew this, we checked it over a bit before putting it through the MOT.

The first thing we discovered that would likely fail the MOT were three areas of rust: a hole in the B-post sill and two crusty patches on the strut tops.

These needed fixing first. Rust treatment, stabilisation and sealing (no, not underseal!!) was the most time- and cost-effective solution, so that's what was agreed.

We also noticed that the exhaust was blowing slightly, so plenty of investigation took place. The conclusion? It is around the exhaust manifold area.

Interestingly, this had already been flagged as an advisory at a previous MOT, so it was left for now. The work involved in fixing it properly is lengthy, the customer wants the beasty back, and, quite frankly, we need the space too. 😉

All done. MOT next…

And it failed. 😔

Fortunately, not on anything we had completed. The main issues were the rear brakes and the horn.

The horn

The horn is the dreaded earth-to-the-steering-column issue.

It works OK if the key is out, as the steering lock makes the connection. A wire link is required to repair it!

The rear brakes

Ahhh, yes… imbalance and binding.

A simple test: jack up the rear axle, start the engine, put it into first gear and look at the wheels.

Sure enough, the driver's-side rear wheel wasn't turning, while the passenger-side one was.

So, there was the binding brake detected.

Next test: apply the foot brake and see how the two wheels behave.

Sure enough, with a mild push of the pedal, one wheel remained stationary while the other stopped.

Hmmmm… an imbalance detected, albeit crudely.

Now, what *should* happen if you push the pedal harder is that both wheels should slow down and eventually stall the engine.

If they don't, there is a problem.

**There is a problem.** 😕

No matter how hard the pedal was pushed, both rear wheels would not stop or stall the engine at tickover.

Shucks!

**Just one more thing…**

The confirmation that this was a hydraulic issue came when we raised the handbrake.

Sure enough, with each click of the handbrake, the engine struggled and then stopped abruptly.

The rear brakes work well via the cable.

The suspect here is the **DSP valve** — a spring-loaded, ball-bearing inertia valve designed to prevent a lightly loaded pickup truck or van from locking the rear brakes before the front brakes during hard, sudden braking.

After removing the device, it became clear that it was the problem.

The internal ball bearing rattled back and forth with just light tilting, and the spring had long since disintegrated.

We suspect this was due to years without the brake fluid being changed.

**When did anybody last flush through their brake fluid and replace it with fresh fluid?**

It is a service item. 🙂

Brake fluid is **hygroscopic**, which means it absorbs moisture. It is also corrosive, and as moisture accumulates, the fluid becomes increasingly damaging to the components of the braking system.

It also reduces braking performance because the moisture boils under heavy braking.

Steam compresses.

You get the picture…

All the parts of the brake system that can corrode internally will do so over time.

So, we are now going to replace the DSP valve with a new bias valve. This will serve the purpose for an always-laden vehicle such as this one.

and.. flush through new brake fluid.

# # # And finally…

One of the pictures shows the petrol tank and the breather vent pipe.

As can be seen, it had been fitted incorrectly and was as tight as a guitar string, as well as being somewhat crushed.

So, we rerouted that too. 👍

to be continued.

Another wilting daisy picked up today for hopefully a short visit. This one runs but splutters , backfires, and dies whe...
24/07/2026

Another wilting daisy picked up today for hopefully a short visit. This one runs but splutters , backfires, and dies when hot after a drive ..
It has a new K3C carburettor and tank and electronic ignition module.
We didn't do any work on the vehicle, though.

initial checks confirm the timings and mixture is all peachy, and it ticks over smooth and stable, too

Sooooo , what is up with it??

Well , the focus is on the sparks side as a lack of regular sparks causes fuel to enter the exhaust unburnt and creates backfires...

Initial investigation shows the hideous bowl of spaghetti wiring pictured around the coil and associated wiring.

From a cursory wire trace, the ballasted coil, which should have around 6-7 volts feeding it when running actually is wired to 12V and no ballast..
But Bill, I hear you exclaim, there is clearly a ballast resistor in the pictures, a rectangular white 1.5 Ohm one as used when the loom ballast is bypassed..

Yes, correct, there is... however, it is wired to the coil positive and 12v one end and the other end.. Drum roll... is wired to the electronic ignition module supply feed..
so starved of current and also dealing with overdrive. why hassle it not failed!

Not visible in the photos is the heat. the engine had been running at idle for 10 minutes, and the coil was already untouchable hot 🔥, understandable considering the 12v feed.

So, in summary, the coil is boiling to death, the electronic ignition module , surprisingly still working, is seeing a 200% load current and is also likely as hot as an angry Vesuvius..

The coils of domestic wire used is a mind boggling mess, so a rewire is in order.
automotive wire has better insulation, and there is no need for whatever they did there..

the Coil is likely damaged, as is the points module, so both will need replacing..

Hopefully, there aren't any more surprises to discover. We will, however, check it all over.

a quick post on how to fit a flexible solar panel onto a fibreglass pod and how NOT to do it..Panel 1 - on one surface, ...
22/07/2026

a quick post on how to fit a flexible solar panel onto a fibreglass pod and how NOT to do it..

Panel 1 - on one surface, bonded and with its output wires invisible, exiting underneath into the pod. no wires to snag, boxes to hit or leak.

A photo of the solar controller output, showing it happily keeping up with running a 65 litre chest fridge at 3 deg C 24/7 for a few days, attached to a 100AH lifepo4 battery. Despite only being capable of around 60W of real output in sunlight.

Panel 2 - oh dear, straddled across different levels of roof, screwed to the roof with now falling out cladding bolts. wires sticking out and a box. panel has likely already failed from the physical stresses on it. Oh, and they wired it to the starter battery, not the leisure one 😁

K3C did Panel 1, stevie wonder did 2, we think 🤔. The roof needs resealing and a new panel sorted!

Address

Wisborough Green

Opening Hours

Monday 9am - 5pm
Tuesday 9am - 5pm
Wednesday 9am - 5pm
Thursday 9am - 5pm
Friday 9am - 5pm
Saturday 10am - 4am

Telephone

+443302234543

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