28/10/2026
It’s definitely a case of “Do as we say, not as we do”, but it’s testament to how good these engines are, and one of the many reasons we use them, that Stav’s very basic spec 1.8T engine is somehow still lasting, considering the power, rpm, and abuse it’s taken in the last 4 years+ since he put it together.
A pump fuel (no ethanol/methanol/water inj) road going car, running as much as 9300rpm, 2.6bar boost, 100-200kph in 4.3sec (making around 640bhp), 193mph in the mile, 168mph in the half mile, 135mph in the quarter mile (all when making around 530bhp), easily winning its power class each time at RaceWars, being constantly used as a test mule for our parts development and general crazy experiments, doing many thousands of road miles each year, even used as a daily when the weather is nice, and somehow the only thing that’s ever failed on the engine is the head gasket slightly lifted after a few years of use, and that was due to running head bolts at a level where he should’ve ran head studs.
Standard block, standard crank, standard BAM pistons, 3rd hand rods (1st owner even destroyed the little end bearings so they have been re-bushed 😂), small port head, n/a cams, hydraulic lifters, cast exhaust manifold, standard throttle body, inlet manifold made from part of a £100 Chinese one welded to part of an n/a one, standard cast wheel Holset turbo (well, 2 different ones, a HX40 and now a HX50), a spec most would laugh at, yet the performance and longevity is nothing to laugh at.
It’s running a standard gearbox too, and again, never failed!
Stav was initially happy if it lasted 6 months, and he has all the parts to build a “Proper” engine for it, but 4 years later it still hasn’t had a major component fail so it’s still going 😂
This is why we chose to use a 1.8T for our swaps.
While unlimited budget/spec engines that nobody can afford, last 5min, and run on race fuel, grab the social media headlines, 1.8Ts are cheap to buy, (comparatively) cheap to build, massively capable , and can make big power for long periods at relatively basic specs.
‘Stock internals records’ for 10sec on race fuel mean zero. Even a stock 1.8T is proven capable of 600whp+ like that (yet we shouldn’t recommend stock rods for even 300!)- We mean power on pump fuel and for long periods.
It’s not as if Stav’s a ground breaker, there’s a few drag engines over the years documented making upwards of 1000bhp on stock crank and pistons 😮
What do we think the key to this is? A few things.
Good mapping is worth its weight in gold and is certainly number 1, as even the biggest spec engine can melt in 1 pull if mapped badly- We chose Bill at Badger5 for our mapping and the results speak for itself.
Even though Stav has made tweaks himself since (many with the guidance of Bill), the fundamentals of the tune are still what Bill did almost 4 years ago, and is a big big part of things.
A high flowing turbine side for relatively low backpressure gives the engine an easier life.
A spec that, while not big or big budget, is “correct” and works together as a whole.
A general good understanding of what is happening with the engine- So many engines fail as there was basic underlying problems the owner didn’t spot, so eventually, pop.
Another factor is our conversion parts actually WORK. Not opinions they work, but facts, so you haven’t got bad parts, be it mounts, wiring, plumbing, cooling, fuelling, etc etc, causing issues to make the engine or transmission fail.
And last but not least- MR2s are light, aerodynamic, and very grippy, so not only is the engine under less stress than lugging along a typical 1400kg+ car, but the engine performance isn’t wasted- It is all used for very rapid acceleration!
