Phil's Camping Reviews

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Went to the Michael Jackson Tribute show recently.  Front row seat and managed to capture these images with my phone
26/08/2026

Went to the Michael Jackson Tribute show recently. Front row seat and managed to capture these images with my phone

Setup for a YouTube video last night to get some B Roll footage for an upcoming video and a homeless j***y abused us.The...
24/08/2026

Setup for a YouTube video last night to get some B Roll footage for an upcoming video and a homeless j***y abused us.

The foul language was horrendous.

A new light for camping out on the market and it’s a beauty.   More info soon.
23/08/2026

A new light for camping out on the market and it’s a beauty.

More info soon.

Spent the day at the Fraser Coast Outdoor Adventure Expo  today.   Walked 4.3km and still not seen it all. Amazing to se...
17/07/2026

Spent the day at the Fraser Coast Outdoor Adventure Expo today. Walked 4.3km and still not seen it all.

Amazing to see so many caravans. And good to see some are implicating Victron Gear.

Caught up with Luke from Tasmania and my mate Mark.

Lucky to have made it today.
Had some issues with the Pajero over the past couple days. I was Still at the service centre at 5:30pm yesterday. Think we have it sorted now. Confirming this coming Monday.

Was not sure if I could have made it there today with my Pajero. Mark offered to take me in his awesome 4wd. So 7 am leaving Bundy we made it at the expo just before the gates opened. .

Also Caught up with camp cooking king himself Ron. Tried some of his awesome camp oven cook ups.

A great day had. Can’t wait next year.

Great to catch up with Luke from Tasmania today.
15/07/2026

Great to catch up with Luke from Tasmania today.

🔋 Real World Battery Accuracy – Powerpaul 320Ah Still Going Strong 🔋I’ve got to say… I’m genuinely impressed.After ownin...
11/04/2026

🔋 Real World Battery Accuracy – Powerpaul 320Ah Still Going Strong 🔋

I’ve got to say… I’m genuinely impressed.

After owning my Powerpaul 320Ah LiFePO4 battery for a number of years now (honestly lost count at this point 😂), I’ve just taken a closer look comparing the Bluetooth BMS readings vs my shunt setup… and the accuracy is spot on.

We’re talking:
• State of Charge: ~72%
• Voltage: ~13.1V
• Current draw: ~4A

And both systems are basically agreeing with each other. That’s something you don’t always see.



⚡ Why This Is Impressive

I still recommend a quality shunt (like Victron) as your primary source of truth — this just shows how far BMS tech has come.

The Powerpaul BMS is doing a seriously good job tracking:
• Charge/discharge current
• State of charge
• Voltage consistency

After years of use too… not just fresh out of the box.



🔍 Where the Bluetooth BMS REALLY Shines

This is where it actually beats a shunt 👇

1. Individual Cell Monitoring
• Cell voltages all sitting within 0.003V difference
• That is tight 👌
• Tells me the battery is still very healthy internally

2. Internal Temperature Monitoring
• Battery temp sitting around mid 20’s °C
• This is critical for:
• Charging safety
• Longevity
• Detecting issues early

3. Built-in Protection Systems
• Charge & discharge MOSFET control
• Fault monitoring (currently zero faults 👍)
• Balancing system active when needed

A shunt simply cannot see inside the battery like this.



⚖️ Shunt vs BMS – My Honest Take

After running both for years:

👉 Shunt (Victron, etc.)
• More accurate long-term SOC tracking
• Better for full system monitoring (loads, solar, etc.)
• Reliable “big picture” view

👉 Bluetooth BMS
• Internal battery health insight
• Cell balance + protection data
• Temperature monitoring

👉 Best setup = BOTH working together



🔋 Final Thoughts

This Powerpaul 320Ah battery has been:
• Reliable
• Compact (not much bigger than a 100Ah!)
• Consistent over years of use

And now seeing how well the BMS lines up with a proper shunt… it just gives even more confidence in the setup.



💬 My Advice

If you’re building a 12V system for camping, caravans or off-grid:

✔️ Don’t rely on voltage alone
✔️ Use a proper shunt
✔️ But absolutely make use of your BMS data

Because together… they tell the full story.



Real world testing beats specs every time.
And this setup has proven itself 👌

Out in the middle of Australia, gear matters… and having the right setup can make all the difference.I’ve been running a...
05/04/2026

Out in the middle of Australia, gear matters… and having the right setup can make all the difference.

I’ve been running a Starlink Mini in my Pajero, — when you’re remote, it’s an absolute game changer. Being able to stay connected, check weather, maps, or even just send a message gives a lot of peace of mind.

⚠️ But there are a few things people need to be aware of:

• If your dish is in stow mode, you can’t use it while driving anymore
• In-motion use is now limited to specific roaming plans
• So don’t assume it’ll just work like it used to — check your plan!

Now here’s the big one…

When you’re out bush with the family, you’re responsible for your own and there safety.

I personally wouldn’t rely on just one system.

✔️ If you’re travelling with mates — having multiple Starlink setups is a great backup
✔️ If you’re solo — you NEED a backup plan

That’s where something like an EPIRB comes in.

If your 12V system goes down or Starlink fails, that EPIRB could quite literally save your life.

💬 Bottom line:
Starlink is brilliant — but it’s not bulletproof.

Redundancy is everything when you’re remote.

Stay safe out there 👍

I saw someone was having trouble with there Starlink Mini not working unless it was pointing in optimal direction runnin...
28/02/2026

I saw someone was having trouble with there Starlink Mini not working unless it was pointing in optimal direction running of 12v.

I honestly put most of the issues down to the limited voltage running through a USB-C cable.

The absolute maximum you’re going to see out of USB-C is 20V. The Starlink Mini is designed to operate anywhere from 12V up to 48V — and there’s a big difference between “it works” and “it runs at full capacity.”

In optimal conditions (no trees, clear sky, correct orientation) it won’t need as much power. But the second you introduce obstructions, imperfect angles, or movement, it needs more headroom. That’s where voltage makes a difference.

I run a Mini on the roof of my Pajero, angled slightly in the direction of travel. It works in all directions and I’ve had zero issues.

The reason? I’m not running it off USB-C.

I had a local electronics guy build me a 12V to 48V booster. My Mini is permanently fed 48V, so it’s always running at its maximum capacity. No drop-outs, no brown-outs, no weird behaviour.

From what I’ve seen, when the Mini isn’t pointed perfectly it is working harder to maintain signal, it draws more power. If you’re already capped at 20V from USB-C, you’re basically giving it less overhead to compensate.

In my opinion, running these off USB-C setups is just asking for trouble. And the funny thing? My 12–48V booster didn’t cost much more than some of the 12V “solutions” I’ve seen people buying.

In my oppinion your all mostly doing this wrong.

Im on what i nickname tje zombie plan. Which is the $8.50 per month unlimited plan. And im able to do wifi calling, messenger calls in either voice or video calls. Yes i can do video calls via messenger on tje zombie plan.

And also im able to watch youtube as well.

Just my real-world experience 👍

There is a huge misconception going around at the moment regarding lithium batteries, BMS systems, and safety – and it n...
14/01/2026

There is a huge misconception going around at the moment regarding lithium batteries, BMS systems, and safety – and it needs to be called out clearly and honestly.

I keep seeing people say (and even YouTube videos claiming) that as long as a battery has a BMS, you’re safe, regardless of the battery chemistry inside it.

❌ Wrong.
❌ Very wrong.
❌ Dangerously wrong.

A BMS (Battery Management System) is NOT a safety forcefield.
It is NOT a guarantee against fire.
And it absolutely does NOT make all lithium chemistries equally safe.



🔋 WHAT A BMS ACTUALLY DOES

A BMS is designed to:
• Monitor cell voltage
• Limit charge and discharge current
• Balance cells (sometimes poorly, sometimes well)
• Shut down the pack if it detects conditions outside its programmed limits

That’s it.

A BMS:
• ❌ Cannot stop internal cell failure
• ❌ Cannot prevent thermal runaway once it starts
• ❌ Cannot fix poor cell quality
• ❌ Cannot compensate for unstable battery chemistry
• ❌ Cannot protect against manufacturing defects
• ❌ Cannot stop damage caused by heat, vibration, or physical stress

And most importantly:
👉 A BMS only reacts AFTER something goes wrong



🔥 THE REAL ISSUE: BATTERY CHEMISTRY

Not all lithium batteries are the same – and pretending they are is reckless.

There is a massive difference between:
• Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO₄ / LFP)
and
• Lithium-ion chemistries such as NMC, NCA, LCO, etc.

LiFePO₄ (LFP):
✔ Much higher thermal stability
✔ Far lower risk of thermal runaway
✔ Slower, less violent failure mode
✔ Widely used in caravans, campers, marine, off-grid systems
✔ Still requires correct installation and protection

Lithium-ion (NMC/NCA etc):
⚠ Higher energy density
⚠ Chemically more volatile
⚠ Can enter thermal runaway violently
⚠ Can self-propagate from cell to cell
⚠ Once it goes, nothing stops it

A BMS does NOT change this chemistry.
A BMS does NOT magically make lithium-ion safe.



🚲 E-BIKE & E-SCOOTER FIRES – THE TRUTH

I keep hearing:

“E-bike fires happen because they don’t have a BMS”

That is only part of the story, and often not the main reason.

Most e-bike and e-scooter packs DO have BMS units.

The real problems are:
• High-energy lithium-ion chemistry
• Cheap or mismatched cells
• Poor thermal design
• Packs charged indoors
• No fire containment
• No ventilation
• No early warning
• Abuse, over-charging, heat, or impact

Once a lithium-ion pack enters thermal runaway:
🔥 The BMS is irrelevant
🔥 The charger is irrelevant
🔥 The switch is irrelevant

It becomes a chemical fire, not an electrical fault.



📺 THE DANGEROUS YOUTUBE ADVICE

There is a video circulating right now telling people:

“Don’t worry about battery chemistry. If it has a BMS, you’re safe.”

This advice is flat-out dangerous.

Battery chemistry matters more than the BMS when it comes to:
• Fire intensity
• Fire propagation
• Toxic gas release
• Ability to extinguish
• Damage to property and life

A BMS is a layer, not a guarantee.
Chemistry is fundamental.



⚠️ REAL SAFETY COMES FROM:

✔ Choosing the right chemistry for the application
✔ Buying quality cells from reputable manufacturers
✔ Correct installation (fusing, isolation, cable sizing)
✔ Ventilation and heat management
✔ Proper charging equipment
✔ Never charging unattended where possible
✔ Understanding failure modes, not ignoring them



🧠 FINAL THOUGHT

Please stop repeating the myth that:

“If it has a BMS, it’s safe.”

That mindset is going to get people hurt.

A BMS is helpful.
A BMS is important.
But a BMS will not save you from unstable chemistry.

Know what’s inside your battery.
Because when things go wrong, the chemistry decides the outcome – not the BMS.

Stay informed.
Stay realistic.
Stay safe.

27/12/2025

I received an interesting comment on one of my recent YouTube videos, and while the delivery was aggressive, and i doubt the person actually watched tje video in question. If he did he would have seen i adjusted the braked in my driveway and on a dirt road nearby. A private road. there is a valid point buried in there that’s worth addressing properly.

For clarity and transparency, I want to explain the full context.

The initial setup and adjustment of my electric brake controller was done on a private dirt road on a farmer’s property, not on a public road. At no point was I interacting with my phone while driving on public roads.

Once that initial setup was completed, I immediately installed the physical remote controller and stopped using the phone altogether. I deliberately spent an extra $150–$200 on the remote so I would not need to touch a mobile phone while driving, ensuring I remained compliant with road laws and, more importantly, safe.

That said — the commenter does raise a valid and important point that needs to be highlighted.

Elecbrakes actively promote the use of their mobile phone app as part of their braking system. While this is technically functional, drivers must be extremely careful about where and when that app is used.

In Australia (and many other countries), touching a mobile phone while driving on public roads is illegal, regardless of intention. That includes adjusting brake settings, even if it feels “necessary” or “quick.”

👉 Important takeaways for anyone watching my content or considering Elecbrakes:

• Initial setup should only be done when stationary
• Preferably on private property, off-road, or before departing
• Do not adjust brake settings on your phone while driving
• If you plan to tow regularly, buy the physical remote
• The remote allows safe, legal, distraction-free control while driving

This is exactly why I chose to invest in the remote — not because the app doesn’t work, but because compliance, safety, and common sense matter.

I make content to share real-world experiences, not to encourage unsafe or illegal behaviour. If something I show sparks discussion or highlights a potential issue, I believe it’s my responsibility to address it openly — which is what I’m doing here.

If you’re new to towing, especially with modern app-based systems, please take the time to understand your local road laws and set your equipment up correctly before you hit the road.

Stay safe, tow smart, and don’t let convenience override common sense.

Address

Bundaberg, QLD

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