Dirtybird promotions

Dirtybird promotions This page is dedicated to promoting demolition derby events.

03/13/2026

We had some discussion about our rear end rule for the 2026 Brian Knisley Memorial Full Size class. After going over it we will be sticking to the original intent of the rule. This will be either a 5 lug or 8 lug rear end with a back brace only. We understand you need something on the top of your housings to mount trailing arms to and will work with you on that.

We also know that there is nothing in the rules about axle protectors. We are going to allow axle protectors.

We are trying to work with the drivers and hope you understand that and will work with us. Going into next year we are going to try to get input from the drivers that support our show this year before we get a set of rules out.

01/10/2026

2026 Brian Knisley Memorial

M o s t Wa n t e d F i n e Art
S t o c k C l a s s R u l e s

This class was created to have fun and fun for the fans to watch (Total Carnage). If you come with a vehicle that is
built any more than what is listed below you will not run.
1. Any 1980 and newer 2 wheel drive passenger car/ mini-van/mini-truck/mid-size suv
2. All vehicles must be stripped off all plastic, glass, headlights, taillights and anything else that
could fall off onto the track during the show.
3. All vehicles must remain stock, ABSOLUTELY NO WELDING ANYWHERE.
4. Bumpers must remain stock, do not alter the bumper in any way. Factory bumper shocks must
remain in the factory location. You may remove rear bumpers and shocks. There is no welding to
be done on bumpers.
5. Batteries may be left in stock location and spray foam may be added around the battery. You
may also move the battery to the passenger floor or seat. Please make sure the battery is not moving.
6. If the factory gas tank is in front of the axle you may leave it there. If it's behind the axle, you must
move it to the rear seat area. Factory tanks may be moved inside but completely secured.
After marker tanks may be used.
7. All doors may be wired or chained in 6 places max per seam.
8. Trunks, hoods, tailgates, all may be wired or chained in 6 places total. Sheet metal to sheet
metal only. Nothing to frame or bumpers. If you remove trunk or tailgate you lose that wire or
chain.
9. A rear seat bar may be added. It may be welded to post. If you have to add something to get
it away from the seat please call. This is only to stop sides from coming in, not to help any other
part of the vehicle.
10. The driver's door only may have a plate welded to the outside or inside. This is for driver safety.
11. DOT tires only. Stock wheels only. All wheel weights must be removed. Only tubes and air
are permitted inside of tires.

These rules are cut and dry, you should not have to call to ask many questions in this class.
If it does not say you can do it then that means YOU CANNOT do it. Quick and easy build

01/09/2026

Don’t forget! Registration opens tomorrow!

Kicking off with 3-Man Compact Teams at 6:30PM! 🤙🏻

11/27/2025

The 2026 rules for the Brian Knisley Memorial are now posted and pinned at the top of the page.

11/27/2025

2026 LIMITED WELD COMPACTS

FRESH CARS ONLY

Entries are open to men and women who have a valid Driver’s License. The Following regulations shall be observed for safety and fairness to all. Orderly conduct is required of all drivers and pit persons. If not, any driver and or people affiliated with that car will be removed without ANY refunds or prize money. Misconduct may result in being banned from present and/ or future participation. Any driver or crew member not complying with any one of the rules will be disqualified. Crew members are the responsibility of the driver.

Entries:
1. Each driver must be at least 14 years old.
2. Each driver must furnish their own car. The driver that is registered to the car, must drive that car in the heat assigned to them. Unless the officials are notified of a driver change and approve it.
3. No vans, suvs, or mini trucks.
4.No V8 engines allowed.
5.All cars must have a factory wheelbase of 110 inches or less.
6.All cars will have to pass inspection before the tech line closes.
7.Prior to the start of the driver’s meeting, each driver must sign an entry and a release form.

Participation Rules:
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backwards.
2. Hitting an opponent’s car in the driver’s door is not allowed and will be cause for disqualification.
3. Must make a damaging hit (from a spectator’s point of view) every 60 seconds. No team driving or sandbagging.
4. All drivers must attend the drivers meeting prior to start time.
5. All drivers must remain in their cars until the car is removed from the track. Unless an official removes the driver.
6. No driver or pitman under the influence of alcohol will be permitted to enter the arena or to participate.
7. Any driver not in place when called upon will be disqualified.
8. Pitmen are not allowed in the arena during a heat.
9. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.
10.No one under the age of 12 will be allowed in the pit area. Different events have different age limits. Please ask the promoter for the show that you are attending.
11.Cars may be inspected at any time for reinforcements, etc. Top 3 finalists will be subject to reinspection after the finish of the finals.
12.Car and driver in the inspection area only.

Preparation Of Cars:
1. Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not specifically authorized by the rules are strictly prohibited.
2. Do not read into the rules! Just read and follow the rules! Not following the rules will result in you being loaded. Your choice!
3. The driver's name should be above the number on the front doors, or you can run a number sign. The number sign cannot reinforce the car. No obscenities are allowed.
4. Concrete, metal plating, wood, foam, or pins in the frame will be considered added ballast and will result in the car being loaded.
5. Station wagon decking must be removed.
6. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added unless specified in the rules.
7.After any car passes inspection, you will not be allowed to add repair plates to the frame or body in any way! Do not weld your frame or body after heat. Remember cars will be reinspected.

CAGE:
1. All cage material can be no larger than 2”x6” rectangle tubing unless specified for a specific rule smaller.
2. A 4-point cage will be allowed with a vertical halo.
No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall or any part of the engine or components and be a minimum of 4” off the floor which cannot be altered.
3. Both door bars can only go 10” past the outside door seam on the front doors to where the bar will be mounted.
4. No cage material can connect or touch the engine, transmission or any of their components
5. The halo bar may go all the way to the floor or frame. If going to the frame it can only be welded to the top side of the frame.
6. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars can not exceed 2”x3”.

Gas Tank and Protector:
1. Aftermarket tanks are allowed and preferred. Mounted on the gas tank protector that is allowed is also preferred.
2. Factory tanks will be allowed to run if they are metal! No plastic tanks.
Will be allowed to run under the car only if they are in front of the rear axle and fully secured. If this becomes an issue, we will not allow it any further.
3. Gas tank protectors can only be 24” wide and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank protector halo must be 6” away from the roof minimum and can not extend past the rear firewall (speaker deck). Station wagon gas tank protectors can not extend beyond the front of the rear humps.
The gas tank protector can touch the speaker decking sheet metal, but the sheet metal cannot be altered or removed. Gas tank protector halo can be connected to the roof halo, but material must be inside the car. Max material is 2”x6” and these bars cannot go any further back than the backside of the gas tank protector.


Driver’s Compartment:
1. Transmission coolers and oil coolers may be placed inside the car and secured. All fans on coolers must have a cover for safety. Cannot connect to frame!
2. Battery boxes may be in the passenger side floorboard or attached to your cage. Must be secured and covered. Max of (2) batteries. Cannot connect to frame or crossmember.
3. Aftermarket straight column steering is allowed.
4. Aftermarket brake/gas pedal setups are allowed and can only bolt to the floor sheet-metal. Cannot attach to frame or crossmember. Cannot strengthen the car.

Frame:
1. No welding allowed on the frame.
2. You may be allowed to pre bend the rear frame section if you wish.
3. Cradle bolts may be changed to ¾” allthread running from bottom of the cradle through the frame. Must be fastened with flat stamped washers and ¾” nut. Must be flush with the top of the frame.
4. You are allowed (1) 3/8” chain per side from unibody to cradle. 1 loop only welded on each end. You CANNOT weld the loops together.

Bumpers:
1. OEM bumpers, replicas, and homemade bumpers are allowed.
2. The bumper may be built to have a 14" point from the farthest point back from the back side of the bumper to the point. However the point itself may be no more than factory Chrysler pointy itself and spanning over 36" span across the bumper. (Will have a cut out template to follow).
3. Bumpers cannot be any taller than 8” at any location.
4. You may shorten the frame to 1” in front of the core support mount and hard-nosed the bumper to the frame.
5. This means the main frame and it cannot attach to the cradle on FWD cars in any way.
6. You will be allowed a 4” wide x 6” long x ¼” thick bumper bracket per side.
7. Bumper bracket must be on the wheel side of the frame rail and must have a ½” inspection hole. If there isn’t one, you will cut one.
8. There CANNOT be any square tube added to the back of the bumper and inserted inside the frame. If this is found, you will not get the chance to cut and will not run, period!
9. All bumper mounting rules apply to the rear bumper as well.


Body:
1. All cars must be welded 5” on 5” off with a max of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap. This includes doors and the trunk lid. Also includes the tailgates on wagons.
2. The driver’s door may be welded solid.
3. The driver’s door is allowed a wrap that cannot go more than 3 inches past the door seam on either side.
4. All body panels may be creased but no doubling of seams.
5. You are allowed (8) 3/8” bolts per fender and (8) 3/8” bolts in the hood. All with a max of (1) 1/2” fender washers.
6. The body cannot be welded to the frame in any fashion. This includes the unibody to the k frame.
7. A front window bar must be run on each car. Minimum of 1 bar, max of 2 bars. Bars cannot be more than 3” wide This is for safety only.
8. Bars can not extend past firewall sheet metal and can only be welded 6 inches on sheet metal.
9. May go from the roof to the dash bar or the roof to the firewall but not both and cannot be connected to the halo.
10. A rear window bar will be allowed. Must run from the roof to the front trunk seam and may go 3” to either side of the seam allowing a total of 6”. This cannot attach to the halo.
11. You are allowed 3 locations of #9 wire, builders choice. These are (2) loops per location, a total of 4 strands per location. No chain or cables allowed.
12. Firewall must be stock with no added metal. Can not tie the firewall and frame together.

Hoods:
All cars must have a hood! No exceptions.
1. Entire Hood must open for inspection.
2. Must be in stock location.
3. You are allowed (6) total hood bolts in any configuration. The core support bolts count as hood bolts if they come through the hood. No hood bolts bigger than 3/4” all thread is allowed. (1) 3” x 3” x 1/4” plate per hood bolt location. Plate must be on the top side of the hood.
4.Firewall hood bolts cannot connect to the frame in any way.
5. Hood must cover the entire fan area.
6. There must be a hole big enough in the hood for a fire extinguisher to be used in case of a fire.

Body Bolts:
1. All body bolts are allowed to be changed to 3/4” all thread or bolt and can not be longer than 8 inches long.
All body bolts or all thread must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. All body 2. bolts must have the factory rubber bushing or a 1” body spacer of some sort per location changed. Spacers cannot be any larger than a factory body spacer size (2”).
3. Only the front two at the core support may run up through the hood as body bolts.
4. Absolutely no welding allowed to mount body bolts.
5. Body bolt locations cannot connect to another body bolt location.
6. No welding the spacers to the frame!
7. Must be secured with stamped washers and nuts. All washers and nuts on the bottom side must be inside the frame not across the bottom of the frame.
8. The top of the body bolt inside the cab or trunk of the car may have (1) 3x3x1/4 plate to serve as a washer with (1) ¾” nut.
9. (2) pieces of ¾” all thread may run through the trunk. These may run through the frame being used as a body bolt or may run sheet metal to sheet metal.

Engine:
1. Engines must be 6 cylinder or smaller. No V8 engines!
2. Engines and transmission of choice otherwise.
3. May have headers.
4. May have carb conversions.
5. May have a simple carb protector that must stay between the headers and can not strengthen the car in any way.
6. A lower engine cradle may be used for RWD cars. Must bolt to the block of the engine and can only be mounted using a factory oem rubber lower mount of some sort.
7. Only a simple cradle may be used.
8. No front or mid plates allowed. This is for mounting purposes only.

Transmission:
1. Crossmembers on RWD cars must be an OEM crossmember.
2.You can use a straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing and (2)- 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long pieces of angle iron to set crossmember on.
(1) Side of the angle iron can be welded to the frame; you can only have (1) angle iron piece per side frame rail. If using angle iron, factory ears must be cut off the frame.

Suspension/ Rear End Options:
Please read this section carefully. If you don’t understand it please call first.
Front Wheel Drive:
You can use one of the following options in building your car:
1. You can have built front struts on a front wheel drive and an OEM unbraced rear end.
OR
2. You can have stock front struts and a braced rear end.
Rear Wheel Drive:
1. You can have built spindles and an OEM unbraced rear end
OR
2. You can have stock spindles with a braced rear end.
You can only choose one of the options above, not both.

If using built struts they may be welded up, stuffed and reinforced on the inside.

If you using a braced rear end:
1. Any OEM 8 lug rear end may be run on RWD cars.
2. Rear Ends can have a back brace only.
Brace not to exceed 2”x4”x1/4”.
Brace must be 4” away from the axle flanges. Braces may not extend more than 5” from the center of the axle tube.
This is the only bracing allowed! Rearend cannot reinforce the car in any way.
3. No full braces, no axle savers etc.

Suspension:
1. The upper and lower control arms and front wheel hubs must remain factory!
2. Upper a-arms may be welded down using (2) pieces of 2” x 3” x 1/4” strap per upper a-arm.

Rear Suspension:
1. Leaf springs must be of factory oem origin. May have a total of 7 leafs per side.
2. No flat stacks!
3. Must have 1” stagger between leafs on both sides of the spring.
4. (6) clamps per side of the car. Not to exceed 2”x4”x 1/4” thickness flat strap and can use (2) 3/8” bolts per clamp.
5. Hangers must remain stock but 1” of the hanger can be welded to the frame per hanger.
6. Hanger and spring must bolt together. Springs cannot be welded together. Must pivot!
7. Leaf spring hangers must be in stock location. No short stacks or moving hanger from the side of the frame!
8. Coil spring cars may double the rear coils.
9. May have 1 3/8” chain per side to set and adjust the ride height.
10. All rear suspension must be factory unless spelled out in above rules

Rear Ends:
1. Pinion brakes are allowed. Must work.
2. Slider driveshafts are allowed.

Wheels and Tires:
1. 15” wheel and tire or smaller may be run.
2. Wheels may have a small 8” multi center.
3. No full center and no beadlocks.
4. May have a 1” lip guard and a valve stem protector.
5. May run solid tires on the rear of FWD. NO FOAM filled.

Repair Plates:
1. No plates on fresh cars!
2. You are allowed two (2) 4” by 6” by ¼” plates after the heat. You only get these two (2) plates all night!

OFFICIAL STATEMENTS:
The officials will have the final decision on all car build rules and show rules at their show. All officials' decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. If you have any questions about your build please call before the show.

If you have any rules questions call:
Chance Winters: 620-778-0795

11/27/2025

2026 FULL-SIZE LIMITED WELD CLASS

Entries are open to men and women who have a valid Driver’s License. The Following regulations shall be observed for safety and fairness to all. Orderly conduct is required of all drivers and pit persons. If not, any driver and or people affiliated with that car will be removed without ANY refunds or prize money. Misconduct may result in being banned from present and/ or future participation. Any driver or crew member not complying with any one of the rules will be disqualified. Crew members are the responsibility of the driver.
Entries:
1. Each driver must be at least 14 years old.
2. Each driver must furnish their own car. The driver that is registered to the car, must drive that car in the heat assigned to them. Unless the officials are notified of a driver change and approve it.
3. Hearse, ambulances, jeeps, trucks, convertibles, mini vans, SUVs, or commercial vehicles will not be allowed.
4. All cars will have to pass inspection before the tech line closes.
5. Prior to the start of the driver’s meeting, each driver must sign an entry and a release form.
Participation Rules:
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backwards.
2. Hitting an opponent’s car in the driver’s door is not allowed and will be cause for disqualification.
3. Must make a damaging hit (from a spectator’s point of view) every 60 seconds. No team driving or sandbagging.
4. All drivers must attend the drivers meeting prior to start time.
5. All drivers must remain in their cars until the car is removed from the track. Unless an official removes the driver.
6. No driver or pitman under the influence of alcohol will be permitted to enter the arena or to participate.
7. Any driver not in place when called upon will be disqualified.
8. Pitmen are not allowed in the arena during a heat.
9. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.
10.No one under the age of 12 will be allowed in the pit area. Different events have different age limits. Please ask the promoter for the show that you are attending.
11.Cars may be inspected at any time for reinforcements, etc. Top 3 finalists will be subject to reinspection after the finish of the finals.
12.Car and driver in the inspection area only.

Preparation Of Cars:
1. Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not specifically authorized by the rules are strictly prohibited.
2. Do not read into the rules! Just read and follow the rules! Not following the rules will result in you being loaded. Your choice!
3. The driver's name should be above the number on the front doors, or you can run a number sign. The number sign cannot reinforce the car. No obscenities are allowed.
4. Concrete, metal plating, wood, foam, or pins in the frame will be considered added ballast and will result in the car being loaded.
5. All factory gas tanks must be removed from factory locations.
6. Station wagon decking must be removed.
7. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added unless specified in the rules.
8.After any car passes inspection, you will not be allowed to add repair plates to the frame or body in any way! Do not weld your frame or body after heat. Remember cars will be reinspected.

Welding Exceptions:
1. No added material inside the car with the exception of the cage components.
2. No frame welding is allowed other than in the specified areas.

CAGE:
1. All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for specific rule smaller.
It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down bars going straight down.
2. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered.
3. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X but can not connect to the frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash.
4. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. 5. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars can not exceed 2”x3”.
5.You must have a roll bar behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or the top side of the frame only and may be welded or bolted to the roof.
6. You may also weld a steering column to the cage.
7. Side bars including roll over may be a max length of 62 inches long.
8. Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.

GAS TANK:
1. Gas tank protectors can only be 24” wide and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank protector halo must be 6” away from the roof minimum and can not extend past the rear firewall (speaker deck). Station wagon gas tank protector can not extend beyond the front of the rear humps. 2.Gas tank protector can touch the speaker decking sheet metal, but the sheet metal cannot be altered or removed. Gas tank protector halo can be connected to the roof halo, but material must be inside the car. Max material is 2”x6” and these bars cannot go any further back than the backside of the gas tank protector.
3. Gas tanks are to be placed on the gas tank protector. 20-gallon tanks max. Must be secured.
No plastic boat tanks allowed. No fuel leaks!

Drivers Compartment:
1. Transmission coolers and oil coolers may be placed inside the car and secured. All fans on coolers must have a cover for safety. Cannot connect to frame!
2. Battery boxes may be in the passenger side floorboard or attached to your cage. Must be secured and covered. Max of (2) batteries. Cannot connect to frame or crossmember.
3. Aftermarket straight column steering is allowed.
4. 03 and up cars must run rack and pinion steering if that’s what came with that car.
5. Aftermarket brake/gas pedal setups are allowed and can only bolt to the floor sheet-metal. Cannot attach to frame or crossmember. Cannot strengthen the car.

Bumpers:
1. OEM bumpers, replicas, and homemade bumpers are allowed.
2. No more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to run in your class and on only one side of the frame.
3. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods.
First way – factory bumper brackets that are legal to a car in your class may not extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only). The bumper may be built to have a 14" point from the farthest point back from the back side of the bumper to the point. However the point itself may be no more than factory Chrysler pointy itself and spanning over 36" span across the bumper. (Will have a cut out template to follow). They may be 8" tall unless loading an unaltered factory skin. Replica bumpers are allowed. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart to lengthen.
OR
Second way - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down either the side, top, or bottom of the frame. Choose only one, cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 14”. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend the plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off.
4. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
5. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
6. Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.

Rear Bumper:
1. The only way you can weld bumper to frame is if it came from the factory with brackets to the frame.
2. Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no more than 14” on the frame. If the brackets are mounted to the body only they have to stay connected to the body. Bumper has to stay with those brackets.
3. Do not move the bumper to the frame. You may weld brackets to the body. Bumpers can weld to brackets and the body.
4. Bumper welding to the body is 5” on 5” off etc, you can use a 3” x 5” x 1/8” strap to weld the bumper to the body.

Body Bolts:
1. All body bolts are allowed to be changed to 3/4” all thread or bolt and can not be longer than 8 inches long.
2. All body bolts or all thread must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have a 1” metal spacer minimum per location changed. Spacers cannot be any larger than a factory body spacer size (2”). All bottom nuts must be inside of the frame. Absolutely no welding allowed to mount body bolts.
Body bolt locations cannot connect to another body bolt location.
No welding the spacers to the frame!
Only (2) of the k-frame bolts can be changed in a Mopar.
3. Body components must be a direct bolt up only. Do not put a sedan body on a wagon frame, etc.
4. (2) 1” pieces of all thread are allowed at the core support. Must be through the top side of the frame or bracket only. All thread can weld to the frame but not the body.
1” minimum space between core support and frame.
All spacers cannot exceed 2” material. Cannot weld core support spacer to frame or core support.
5. Factory stamped washers on the inside of the frame. (1) 3”x 3” x 1/4” plate on the topside per body bolt location. Plates cannot touch other plates.
6. Do not add body bolts.
Hood:
1. Entire Hood must open for inspection.
2. Must be in stock location.
3. You are allowed (6) total hood bolts in any configuration. The core support bolts count as hood bolts if they come through the hood. No hood bolts bigger than 3/4” all thread is allowed. (1) 3” x 3” x 1/4” plate per hood bolt location. Plate must be on the top side of the hood.
4.Firewall hood bolts cannot connect to the frame in any way.
5. Hood must cover the entire fan area.
6. There must be a hole big enough in the hood for a fire extinguisher to be used in case of a fire.
Frame:
1. Top frame seams, a-arms forward, can be welded. 1/2” bead only with a single pass.
2. Cold tilting, cut and tilting, and re-stubbed cars are allowed.
03 and newer cars must tilt in the side rails only.
14” of weld to tilt. If you cut and tilt at the box, DO NOT FOLD THE TABS OVER AND WELD THEM DOWN!! NO FRAME SHAPING!!
If the car is cold tilted, the 14” of weld can be used on the top side frame seam behind the a - arm. (Example old iron gm).
If you cut and tilt, then you cannot use the 14” of extra frame seam welding. If you don’t understand, call!
3. You may shorten any new iron car up to the front of the core support hole. The factory core support tab must remain in the factory location, with a factory weld. The remainder of the tab can be welded to the bumper. Please call if you don’t understand this rule.
4. Old iron cars may shorten to the front of the core support hole on the frame or bumper bracket. Any old iron car that has the core support hole in the bracket must leave the bracket in the factory location, with the factory bolts. The bracket and frame can be shortened to the front of the core support hole on the bracket. Both the bracket and frame can be welded to the bumper. Bumper brackets can also be welded to the frame.
1976 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches from the back of the bumper to the front of the spring pocket.
5. The rear frame may be dimpled or notched in 2 places per frame rail.
6. Frames may be shaped on rear humps only. Wheel side of frame only.
This is the only frame shaping allowed period!
Frame shaping can only be 8” on either side of the center of the hump.
7. You may restub a car using only 14” of weld, (1) 1/2” bead, with no added material per frame rail. All restubs must be make to make, style to style;
03 and newer stubs can only be used in 03 and newer cars, 98-02 FoMoCo to 98-02 FoMoCo only etc.
All sub car restubs must be a direct bolt up!! No Imperial subs in non Imperial cars.
Have questions please call.
All 03 and newer cars must be restubbed in the side frame rails.
8. Any metal found inside the frames will result in the car being disqualified and it will be loaded.
Suspension:
1. You may change springs to a stiffer OEM spring. Doubled springs are OK if in the rear.
2. Shocks and Suspension must remain stock! No all thread in shock locations.
3. Aftermarket tie rods allowed with stock size ball joints. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. (No Big Chief tie rods)
Only stock size car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed.
4. You may change upper a -arms to a stamp steel car a-arm. This means cut the bar out of the a-arm and run individual bolts if the car you are running came that way from the factory.
Adapter plates are allowed if the car has a factory steering box location on the frame rail.
5. Upper a-arms may be welded down using (2) pieces of 2” x 3” x 1/4” strap per upper a-arm. Half the a-arm strap must weld to the upper a-arm and the other to the wheel side of the frame. Push this rule you lose it completely.
6. The lower a-arm cannot be welded to the frame in any way.
7. Stock spindles only. Must be a car spindle!
8. Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors.
9. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles

03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinion, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.


Rear Suspension:
1. Leaf springs- 9 leaf total pack per side. No flat stacks! Must have 1” stagger between leafs on both sides of the spring. No leafs exceeding 5/16” thickness.
2. (6) clamps per side. Not to exceed 2”x4”x 1/4” thickness flat strap and can use (2) 3/8” bolts per clamp.
3. Hangers must remain stock but 1” of the hanger can be welded to the frame per hanger.
4. Hanger and spring must bolt together. Springs cannot be welded together. Must pivot!
5. Leaf spring hangers must be in stock location. No short stacks or moving hanger from the side of the frame!
6. Rear suspension may be chained down with a max of 3/8” chain. One loop from frame rail to rear end per side.
7. Rear control arms may be changed. Can lengthen or shorten. May be loaded. You may also make your own control arms out of 2” x 2” x1/4” tubing. Aftermarket control arms are allowed. If these are used to strengthen the car you will change them.
8. Watt’s Conversion kits allowed but only the lower brackets can be welded to the frame. Brackets cannot strengthen the car. 3”x3”x1/4” tubing max for lower brackets and can only weld to the inside of the frame, not the top or bottom of the frame rail. Everything else must be bolted in place.
9. All unused brackets must be removed from the frame.
10. No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
11. Factory package tray must remain in the car, for that car.

ENGINE:
1. No distributor protectors or full cradles allowed!
2. Use the engine of your choice, the engine must be in stock location.
3. Can use any rubber engine mount. Mounts may be welded to frame only. Mount to frame not to exceed 8“x 8“x 1/4“material. You may extend off the back of the frame cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2-inch flat plate only. (Example SBC in caddy or mopar). Cannot weld the lower engine cradle to the frame or to the mount.
4.2003 and newer Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury engine mounting, you may use a cradle like Grey Area or Budde cradle or you can make your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain ½ inch off the side rail. Repair plates may not be used to tie the cradle into the rails. The cradle can not be welded to any part of the frame or body.
5. Lower engine cradles are allowed 1/2” thickness max.
Mid plates and front plates can be run, also 1/2” thickness max. Cannot be any wider than the engine and cannot be any taller than the valve covers. Cannot touch the frame or sheet metal at any time.
All sheet metal must be removed if running a mid-plate.
Mid plate and front plate can connect but nothing above the valve covers.
Pulley protectors are allowed but if running a pulley protector, the entire sway bar must be removed.
6.Radiators must remain in the stock factory location. Can have water and or antifreeze only. 7.You can run the factory air conditioning condenser or a radiator protector in front of the radiator. You can not run both.
Radiator protectors must meet these dimension:
Max 45” wide, 19” tall and ⅛” thick
Must be a flat sheet
Can only be attached with max (6) ⅜” bolts and factory stamped 3/8” washers to core support only
Can not be attached to anything but the core support!
Any questions call first.
8. (4) 3/8” threaded rod and (2) 3” wide straps can be used to hold the radiator in. Can be bolted or welded to core support. This is to hold the radiator in the car, not to reinforce it!
9.-Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4” by 4” by ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything.



TRANSMISSION:
There are two options for mounting the transmission, choose only one.
1.You can use a factory cross member from a car that is legal for the class you are running.
2.You can use a straight piece of 2”x2”x1/4” tubing and (2)- 2”x2”x1/4” x 6” long pieces of angle iron to set crossmember on.
3. (1) Side of the angle iron can be welded to the frame; you can only have (1) angle iron piece per side frame rail. If using angle iron, factory ears must be cut off the frame.

Transmission Brace, Bell Housing & Plate:
You may run a transmission brace with the following guidelines:
1. Transmission brace must follow the contour of the transmission and never extend more than 2 inches off the case.
2. Transmission brace may only be attached to the engine by the bell housing bolts. Nothing to the heads, spacer plate, or underneath.
3. You may run a steel bell and tail with the brace.
5. Transmission tunnel must be slit length ways the distance of the transmission if running a brace.
-You may run an aftermarket bell housing, but no other modifications may be done to the transmission. You are allowed 1 loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with one link welded per side or bolt it down with 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone.
-May run a bell housing spacer if you have a short bell. May only be attached thru the bell housing bolts. Must stay below the heads and a maximum of 2 inches wider than the bell housing itself and not allowed to come in contact with the sheet metal or cage at any time.

REAR END:
1. Pinion brakes are allowed. Must work.
2. Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8-lug rear end
3. Rear Ends can have a back brace only. Brace not to exceed 2”x4”x1/4”. Brace must be 4” away from the axle flanges. Braces may not extend more than 5” from the center of the axle tube.
This is the only bracing allowed! Rearend cannot reinforce the car in any way.
4. Slider driveshafts are allowed.

WHEELS AND TIRES:
1.No split rims or studded tires allowed.
2.No wheel/tire under 12 inches or over 16 inches will be allowed.
3.Wheels can have small centers in them. 3/8” thickness max. Lip protectors and valve stem protectors are allowed.
4.All brakes must work.

Body:
1. All cars must be welded 5” on 5” off with a max of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap. This includes doors and the trunk lid. Also includes the tailgates on wagons. The driver’s door may be welded solid.
2. No Sedagons.
3. Deck lid must be 100% in stock location. Must use a trunk lid off a car, not a hood. You may tuck the trunk with a single 90° bend. You are allowed (2) 3/4” pieces of all thread through the deck lid to the frame. (1) per rail. These must go through a factory body bolt hole and can go to the top side of the frame only. Must be vertical. V – wedging is allowed, rear corners must be vertical. Speaker decking must be in stock location or can be removed entirely. If speaker decking is removed, you cannot weld the truck lid to the floor and make a seam.
4. Removal of trunk lid is allowed.
5. A front window bar must be run on each car. Minimum of 1 bar, max of 2 bars. Bars cannot be more than 3” wide and can only be attached to sheet-metal. This is for safety only.
Bars can not extend past firewall sheet metal and can only be welded 6 inches on sheet metal.
6. No rear window bars allowed.
7. You are allowed (8) 3/8” bolts per fender and (8) 3/8” bolts in the hood. All with a max of 1 1/2” fender washers.
8. Body creasing is allowed. Sheet metal only.
9. Window seams may be rolled over and welded. No added material.
10.You are allowed 3 locations of #9 wire, builders choice. These are (2) loops per location, a total of 4 strands per location. No chain or cables allowed.

Rust:
1. Rusted area must be removed, 1/2” overlap from new metal to old metal. New rust patches must not overlap. You must butt weld, using your stitch weld. Don’t stagger the welds on two patches to have one continuous weld between two patches.
2. New material not to exceed factory thickness.
3. Must be welded 1” on 1” off -abuse it, you’ll lose it – zero tolerance.
4. No rust repair to frames. That’s for the promoter to decide if you can use a repair plate at that location.

Frame Plates:
1. You are allowed (3) 6” by 6” by ¼” plates per frame rail on both fresh and pre-rans.
2. These plates can not overlap, connect to each other or the bumper brackets.
3. The plates can not connect to the cage or drivetrain in any way.

OFFICIAL STATEMENTS:
The officials will have the final decision on all car build rules and show rules at their show. All officials' decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. If you have any questions about your build please call before the show.

For all rules questions Please call the following:

Kyle Mansfield: 620-870-2107
Ken Vest: 620-988-8010

Address

South Coffeyville, OK
74072

Website

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Dirtybird promotions posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Share

Category