Ratchet & Torque mobile Workshop service.

17/04/2026

Mazda 3 2018 BN came in with noise, hard clutch pedal, and occasional slipping.

After inspection, found a worn release bearing and worn clutch plate. Also discovered the flywheel was undersized due to aggressive machining previously done (likely at a dealership).

Carried out full repair:
• Replaced clutch plate, pressure plate, and pilot bearing
• Installed new flywheel and flywheel bolts
• Replaced all single-use and torque-to-yield bolts
• Torqued everything to Mazda Workshop Manual specifications
• Refilled transmission with ~1.8L of correct API spec fluid

Result: Smooth clutch operation, no noise, no slipping, back to perfect working condition.

If you are facing any clutch issues, please contact. Thanks Ratchet&Torque.

25/10/2025

Vehicle: 2011 Ford/Mazda BT-50 (Manual)
Issue: Clutch slippage / Noise and rear main seal leak.
Action: Dropped transmission and found all main components were worn beyond service limits.
Replaced:
• Rear main seal
• Flywheel
• Clutch Disc
• Pressure Plate
• Release Bearing
• Pilot Bearing

Job complete. Tested and ready for collection.

16/10/2025

2024 Ford Ranger Bi-Turbo – Turbo Replacement Due to Oil Staining 🔧

We recently worked on a 2024 Ford Ranger Bi-Turbo that came in with visible oil staining around the high-pressure and low-pressure turbo joints. Upon inspection, the staining was traced to the turbocharger oil line connections — a potential sign of deeper issues.

🛠️ Diagnosis:
• Oil staining was present around both the high-pressure and low-pressure turbo joints.
• Suspected cause: oil seepage from feed/return fittings or internal seal breakdown.
• No major leak yet, but enough to warrant action before it worsened.

✅ Action Taken:
• Complete turbo assembly replaced to prevent long-term reliability issues.
• Fittings checked, all seals replaced, and proper torque applied to spec.
• Engine bay cleaned and tested post-replacement for any signs of residual seepage.

⚠️ Why It Matters:
Oil staining in these areas is often the first sign of turbo wear or fitting failure. Left unattended, it can lead to boost issues, oil consumption, and even turbo failure.

📌 If you’re noticing oil around your turbo or experiencing reduced performance, don’t wait — early repairs can save your engine and your wallet.

06/06/2025

Wheel Alignment Explained – Why It Matters 🛞

I am just trying to help for free.

Proper wheel alignment doesn’t just keep your car driving straight — it affects tire life, handling, safety, and fuel economy. Here’s a quick breakdown of everything you need to know:

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🔧 1. Camber
• What it is: The tilt of the wheels inward or outward when viewed from the front.
• Negative camber: Tops of wheels tilt inwards – improves cornering but causes inner tire wear.
• Positive camber: Tops of wheels tilt outwards – can cause outer tire wear.
• Bad alignment = Uneven tire wear + reduced grip.

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🔧 2. Toe
• What it is: The direction the wheels point relative to each other when viewed from above.
• Toe-in: Fronts of wheels are closer together – can cause feathered inner-edge wear.
• Toe-out: Fronts of wheels are further apart – can cause feathered outer-edge wear.
• Bad alignment = Instability + uneven wear.

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🔧 3. Caster
• What it is: The tilt of the steering axis from the side view.
• Positive caster: Enhances stability and cornering (most modern cars use this).
• Negative caster: Leads to poor straight-line tracking and loose steering feel.
• Bad caster = Steering problems.

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🔧 4. Thrust Angle
• What it is: The direction the rear wheels point compared to the vehicle centerline.
• Incorrect thrust angle: Car may dog-track or pull to one side.
• Fix: Full 4-wheel alignment.

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🔧 5. SAI (Steering Axis Inclination)
• What it is: The inward tilt of the steering axis — built into suspension design.
• Helps: Wheel return-to-center and cornering stability.
• Can’t be adjusted directly but misalignment shows issues with bent or damaged components.

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🔧 6. Scrub Radius
• What it is: Distance between tire contact point and steering axis at ground level.
• Affects: Steering feel, self-centering, and brake stability.
• Incorrect offset wheels or damaged suspension = changed scrub radius.

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🛞 Common Tire Wear Causes
• Camber wear: One side of tire wears faster.
• Feathered wear: From incorrect toe.
• Spotty/diagonal wear: Often multiple issues (alignment + suspension).
• Underinflation: Edge wear.
• Overinflation: Center wear.

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⛽ Fuel Consumption & Alignment

Poor alignment = more rolling resistance
🔻 Increased fuel use
🔻 Premature tire wear
🔻 Strain on suspension and steering

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✅ Fix: A Professional Wheel Alignment
• Every 10,000–15,000 km or if you hit a pothole/kerb.
• Always align after suspension work.
• Saves tires, fuel, and improves handling and safety.

10/05/2025

Leaking Thermostat Housing – 1.5L Ford Focus (Dragon Engine)
A Tight, Painful Job That’s Not for the Faint of Heart

If your 1.5L Ford Focus (Dragon engine) is leaking coolant, chances are the thermostat housing is to blame. It’s a common fault — but the replacement is anything but simple.

Here’s what it really takes to get it done:

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Step 1: Alternator Removal (Yes, It’s That Deep)

Before you even touch the thermostat, you’ll need to clear the way — and that means removing the alternator. But on this engine, it’s not straightforward:

What needs to come off just to remove the alternator:
• Engine mount
• Torque mount
• Exhaust bracket
• A section of the exhaust
• Drive belt

Then — and only then — can you push the engine over slightly to make room to pull the alternator out. It’s a tight squeeze, and every bolt fights back.

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Step 2: Thermostat Housing Removal

Once the alternator’s finally out of the way, you get access to the thermostat housing — but the fun doesn’t stop there.

Thermostat removal process:
• Remove the nut securing the housing
• Use the two-nut technique to back out the studs (no room for a socket or torque wrench)
• Remove the old housing carefully
• Clean all mating surfaces
• Fit the new thermostat and housing
• Refit studs and torque everything down as best as space allows
• Reassemble everything in reverse
• Refill coolant and properly bleed the system

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Tip: Never rush this job. The tight working space means one slip can crack plastic, cross-thread studs, or lead to leaks down the line.

This job is a sh*tfight start to finish.

24/04/2025